In San Giacomo di Rialto, a campo near the Rialto Bridge and also known as San Giacometto, lies a church believed to be the oldest in Venice. First built in the year 421, the restored church standing today dates back to 1601.
Not an elegant façade by any means, but the enormous fifteenth-century clock above the entrance fascinates me and commands my attention.
What’s so interesting is the clock’s face, numbered in Roman numerals one through twenty-four. What adds to the uniqueness of this ancient, ornate clock is that it only has one hand shaped like a ray of sunshine. I’m told the locals consider it a standing joke because of its reputation for inaccuracy.
Supposedly, the San Giacomo di Rialto clock tells time in “Venetian Hours” and tracks time from sunset rather than midnight. What’s even more confusing is that midnight is positioned on the right and noon on the left. But it still isn’t accurate and everyone in Venice seems to know it.
As you might imagine, over the centuries, stories were told, and some local guides even pass these on to unsuspecting tourists. I’m not sure they really believe these today, but I’ll let you be the judge.
When tourists tell the locals that the clock is wrong, they often reply with the following explanation. “It isn’t broken. You simply don’t know how to read it.” They’re probably right, because the clock was designed around ora italica, a system where the 24-hour cycle begins at sunset, not at midnight. Legend has it that since sunset time changes slightly each evening, the clock was historically adjusted each day.
And every day, locals stroll through the campo they lovingly refer to as Campo San Giacometto. They ignore the massive clock above, since they realize that in Venice, an enjoyable conversation matters much more than whatever hour a mechanical hand might point to.
Venice has always stood up for itself and today, what most of the local Venetians love about this clock is that that it remains a beautiful reminder that Venice has always operated on its own rules and its own timeline.
And this is really the true spirit of Venice. It’s a city that forces us to slow down, not to worry about the time, and just be present in the moment. The next time you find yourself sitting in Campo San Giacometto with a glass of prosecco or a Spritz, you’ll understand exactly what that means. The clock will always be off, but the atmosphere will always be right on time.
Have you walked past this unusual clock in Venice and wondered about it?
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For much more about Venice, I invite you to check out my award-winning travel memoir.
THE VENICE I KNOW.
2021 Readers’ Favorite Finalist in the Travel genre
2023 National Indie Excellence Awards Finalist in the Travel Category
Not your typical travel guide, this book places an emphasis on actual issues facing the Venetian people today. “Margie delivers an illuminating and honest look at Venice, a real place where everyday people live and work. In her characteristic conversational tone, she shares many personal stories and experiences, and you’ll feel as if you are traveling alongside her.”
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