In La Serenissima the list of things to see is endless. Why is it that whenever I travel to Venice, I discover something new, which then begins a snowball effect, and I yearn to explore even more? Can it be enough is never enough?
I only learned of Ponte di Chiodo recently, but it’s a good possibility I walked past this bridge and didn’t realize it. (The above photo was taken by Armin Kleiner.) With over four hundred bridges in Venice, anything’s possible. But I’d like to return and search for this peculiar bridge over Rio di San Felice in Cannaregio. A small, arched, canal footbridge, Ponte de Chiodo is the only one without a parapet, or railing, on the historic island of Venice.
You may recognize Ponte di Chiodo from a scene in the 1955 classic movie Summertime, starring Katharine Hepburn and Rossano Brazzi. Renato, Brazzi’s character, lived in anapartment on Rio di San Felice, just at the foot of Ponte di Chiodo.
Though the Chiodo Bridge over Rio di San Felice leads only to a nondescript private doorway, I’m sorry I missed the opportunity to photograph it. Named after a Venetian noble family who owned it centuries ago, this little footbridge is also referred to as the Nail Bridge, since chiodo translates to nail in English. A popular B&B named 3749 Ponte Chiodo is situated at the end of this bridge, and the private doorway leads inside.
The only other bridge without a parapet is located on the tiny Venetian lagoon island of Torcello. Built in the 15th century over a 13th century foundation, Ponte del Diavolo crosses over the Maggiore canal and connects the historic center of Torcello to the lagoon. Also known as the Devil’s Bridge, it likely derives its name from a corrupted version of the name of a local family called Diavoli. However, a more interesting story is the legend that people love to tell.
The legend involves a heartbroken Venetian girl in love with an Austrian soldier, who is killed and a devil. A common legendary tale is the belief that the devil appears every Christmas Eve.
Hundreds of years ago, none of the bridges in Venice had railings or walls. Apparently, too many Venetians would fall into the canals while walking home after a night of drinking, or so the story goes. At some point the local authorities decided to build ramparts out of wood, stone, or wrought iron on the bridges.
There’s always more to see and do in Venice, and you don’t need to be with crowds of people to appreciate this city. So there is a good reason to return again and again. Have you been to Venice? What are some of your favorite memories from your travels there?
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For much more about Venice, I invite you to check out my award-winning travel memoir.
THE VENICE I KNOW.
2021 Readers’ Favorite Finalist in the Travel genre
2023 National Indie Excellence Awards Finalist in the Travel Category
Not your typical travel guide, this book places an emphasis on actual issues facing the Venetian people today. “Margie delivers an illuminating and honest look at Venice, a real place where everyday people live and work. In her characteristic conversational tone, she shares many personal stories and experiences, and you’ll feel as if you are traveling alongside her.”
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