Venice is an island shaped like a fish, and zigzagging through it, is the famous Grand Canal. What is considered to be historic Venice is the island itself, and it is divided into six separate neighborhoods called sestieri. These neighborhoods are San Marco, Dorsoduro, San Polo, Santa Croce, Cannaregio, and Castello.
In reality, Venice also includes an area on the mainland. Known as Mestre, it is not considered to be the historic part of Venice. I’m told that local Venetians, those born on the island of Venice, turn up their noses at those born in Mestre and tell them they are not really Venetians. Yes, the rumor that Venetians can be arrogant at times may carry a shred of truth to it.
If you’re like me and have been to Venice more than once, chances are good you’ve sauntered through every sestiere without even realizing it. A map of this fish-shaped island makes the streets a little easier to navigate, but I still find these mazes of back alleys and streets confusing, or as the Italians like to say, molto confuso.
SANTA CROCE
For travelers who arrive by cruise ship, Santa Croce connects to the mainland by way of Piazzale Roma, and this is the place many day-trippers first set foot in Venice. To continue with the fish analogy, Santa Croce is where the eyes would be, and it’s located in the central western section of Venice.
Santa Croce is the smallest sestiere and is also the location of the bus and car parking terminals. In the above photo, you can get a glimpse of the People Mover, a driverless elevated train that shuttles passengers between three locations: the Marittima port station, where cruise ships dock; the Piazzale Roma, the major transportation hub of the city; and the artificial island of Tronchetto, with its large car parking garages and bus parking lots.
This sestiere also is the location of Constitution Bridge, which boasts a high pedestrian traffic rate. It’s convenient for travelers who need to reach the train station once arriving by bus, car, or cruise ship.
CANNAREGIO
The sestiere of Cannaregio is the first place visitors arrive in Venice when traveling by train, since Santa Lucia, the Venice train station, is located here. If you imagine the fish shape of the island of Venice, with the head of the fish to the left and the tail to the right, Cannaregio is where the brain would be. Not only is Cannaregio the most heavily populated sestiere of Venice, but it’s also the largest in area. This district encompasses nearly all of Venice north of the Grand Canal and stretches almost to the Rialto Bridge.
Venice’s Jewish Ghetto, established in 1516 and the first recognized ghetto in Europe, is also in this district. Did you know that the English word “ghetto” had its origins right here in Venice? Steeped in history, I find it a lovely place to wander as well as to find authentic Venetian cuisine. Also, the Fondamente Nove, the vaporetto station for travel to the islands of Murano, Burano, Torcello, and San Michele, is in Cannaregio.
SAN POLO
Situated in the center of Venice, where the heart of the fish would be, is the smallest and oldest of the six districts, San Polo. The first inhabitants chose this area near the Rialto, since the land sat higher and was not as prone to flooding.
The city built up from here, which is why the Rialto market was established in San Polo.
More residential than other neighborhoods today, San Polo has fewer tourists, but you’d deny it once you roamed around near the market area, which is always lively. Be sure to wander around the backstreets of San Polo. It’s an ideal neighborhood for experiencing the local lifestyle.
DORSODURO
One of my favorite neighborhoods in Venice is Dorsoduro, a quiet section where locals walk their dogs and push their babies in strollers. The Dorsoduro sestiere lies in the southern part of Venice, between the Grand Canal and the Canale della Giudecca, not far from San Marco.
The island of Giudecca is part of this sestiere, although it is located across the canal. Consider Dorsoduro to be located in the fins of the fish. Two of Venice’s most famous art museums, Gallerie dell’Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim Museum, are both located in Dorsoduro.
I recollect how much I enjoyed staying here during my first solo trip to Venice in 2011. I recall strolling around the neighborhood, getting lost in the calli, and speaking in Italian to the locals who live here. A youthful vibe permeates the streets and campos due to the Università Ca’ Foscari.
The lively Campo Santa Margherita is the hub of the college scene here. Plenty of gelato shops, wine shops, cafés, and night spots attract the young and the old to this large square. Popular with artists and students, Campo Santa Margherita is the place to be in the evenings, where places stay open till 2:00 a.m. for a spritz (prosecco with Campari) or a glass of vino. It has gained a reputation for an energetic night scene, especially since the rest of Venice closes up early.
SAN MARCO
San Marco wins the prize as the most touristy sestiere, with Piazza San Marco, better known as St. Mark’s Square, the main attraction. San Marco lies in the belly of the fish, and although it’s the busiest, it’s considered the heart of Venice.
Everyone wants to be here, and numerous restaurants and shops tempt tourists all day and evening. The main attractions—the Doge’s Palace, St. Mark’s Basilica, and the Campanile—guarantee lines and crowds most days.
Live orchestra music fills the air until midnight, when it transforms into a magical place. My memories from San Marco will last a lifetime, or at least until I can return to this amazing city in Italy.
CASTELLO
The sestiere of Castello is in the tail of the fish, part of it near San Marco and the other part, which is far less touristy, extends to the east and further from the center of Venice.
The historic opera house, La Fenice, although close to Dorsoduro, is located in Castello. Destroyed by several fires, it’s been rebuilt and open since 2003.
With a seating capacity of 1,126, La Fenice presents world-renowned opera and also offers daily tours. Castello, a district with an abundance of green space, is home to a majority of local Venetians. Castello is also famous for its public gardens and the Arsenale, a complex of shipyards that was once the center of Venice’s naval industry, used today for exhibitions during the Venice Biennale.
With everything Venice has to offer, I can easily stay here for a long time and still not experience all of its allure. The wonderful consequence is an excuse to return.
Read more about Venice’s neighborhoods and much more in my award-winning Italy travel memoir,
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Have you been to Venice recently? I’d love to hear your stories, so please leave a comment.
Grazie and Ciao
donnajburkholder
This is great. Where is Mestre? Did I miss that?
margieinitaly
Thank You Donna. Meager is located on the mainland, just across the bridge from the island of Venice. There is a train station, and many Venetians who work in historic Venice live in Mestre.