A Wonderful Hidden Gem Revealed in Venice

One of my favorite aspects of Venice is its maze-like network of alleys behind the facades of grand palazzos, I recall reading about the narrowest walkway in Venice, a tapered alley called Calle Varisco. At its most narrow section, it is only fifty-three centimeters wide, which is just a little more than twenty inches.

I’m curious, so in the fall of 2014, I decide to explore this cool, hidden gem, when I’m here for a few days alone. After examining my map, I believe it’s close to the Rialto Bridge, in the Cannaregio sestiere of Venice. Everyone I ask in the area tells me they know nothing about it. Local shop owners don’t seem to be are aware of the name of this calle, and I’m surprised. Much later, after I eventually locate it,  I finally understand why.

Following the map, I begin my adventure. A few minutes into this exploration, I’m rewarded with confirmation that I’m in the right place after all.

Looking up, I see a sign that spells out Calle Varisco in all capital letters. Just above it, a double set of modern, arched windows captures my attention. They are framed by worn, wooden shutters, their green paint fading and peeling.

I love wandering, and even getting lost within these small alleys in Venice, if I have all day to do it. I’m grateful nobody else is here and hopeful my luck holds out. If someone appears from the other end of this passageway, it’s bad news, and clearly, there isn’t enough room for one of us to stand sideways and allow the other to pass.

The alley intrigues me as I walk past doors to residences, and additional tiny alleys branch off from here too. The side alleys aren’t marked, and the map isn’t detailed enough either.  I guess I’m going the right way. From this adventure, it’s easy to understand why people get lost in Venice.

The corridor beneath my feet is made of gray square stones. I notice the high walls change from stone to brick, separating the dwellings. As I continue, the path turns to dirt. Parts of this alley are dark, and other areas appear brighter.

At one point I can go no farther, and the alley dead-ends into a small canal. Laughing to myself, I wonder if anyone ever fell into the water while wandering around here drunk. I can’t fathom doing this at night.

Retracing my steps, I then keep going. As I continue the exploration, I realize  few visitors to Venice ever experience this hidden place. Soon, the alley widens a bit, and I have no clue where I’m going. I  see a campo coming up, so I’ll figure it out from there. After I make a left turn, an exquisite flower shop appears on the right corner. It’s beautiful, with at least twenty pots of fresh, multihued arrangements.

Suddenly, I’m out of the dark and back into civilization. Getting lost in the winding and narrow alleys in Venice might be a nightmare for some travelers, especially if they are bound to a schedule or need to be somewhere at a specific time.

Everyone I know who has traveled to Venice can regale me with their stories of getting lost at least one time, and more often than not, multiple times. And why am I not surprised? With 435 pedestrian bridges over the 170 canals and the labyrinth of 3000 narrow alleys, of course you’re going to get lost in Venice. I’ve been lost on every single trip. For me, it’s part of the fascination of this city. Around every corner a surprise awaits, and so does another photo opportunity.

Read more about this and other places to see in Venice in my award-winning Italy travel memoir,
THE VENICE I KNOW.

Available in paperback, kindle, and audiobook. Click the link to purchase on Amazon or Audible.Have you been to Venice? I’d love to hear your stories, so please leave a comment.

Grazie and Ciao