Secret Tunnel from Amalfi to Atrani

 

When I encountered a glimpse of Atrani from that bus along the winding Amalfi Coast road, I knew I’d like to visit this gorgeous seaside town one day. Situated just to the east of Amalfi, Atrani is considered the smallest community in southern Italy. With a surface area of only 0.12 square kilometers, only 832 people call this their home in 2024. Its seaside location makes it a perfect filming location for movies, and in 2012, the initial scene of a funny Fiat commercial.

 

I envisioned Atrani as the place to soak up the sun in a relaxed atmosphere and experience il dolce far niente. Why haven’t I ever visited this gem of a place? Pastel-colored homes interspersed between white buildings on various levels define the landscape like an exquisite watercolor painting.

Atrani (Photo by Salvatore Monetti)

I’ve sailed past this small Amalfi Coast town on the ferry ride between Salerno and Amalfi, and I identified Atrani thanks to its distinguishing architecture. The collegiate church of Santa Maria Maddalena, with a prominent sixteenth-century bell tower and the yellow and green majolica tile domes can’t be missed.

Finally, during this stay in Amalfi, an afternoon visit to Atrani became a goal. Having heard how easy it is to walk through a secret, pedestrianized tunnel from Amalfi to Atrani, that is the mode of travel Richard and I embark upon. The directions I found prove easy enough. From the bus stop in Amalfi you need to walk along the shore to the tunnel, which is  located on the left. It isn’t visible from the main road. Near Cafè Dejavu, head into the tunnel, which is always open and  only for pedestrians. You can be reassured it’s the safest road from town to town.

When you step out of the tunnel, cross the road to Ristorante Da Zaccaria. Walk right through the restaurant, then down the steps, and you’ll arrive in the town of Atrani.

The ten-minute walk landed us in the charming village of Atrani, and the view is stunning.  I’m so happy to have finally made it here.The town is essentially empty, compared to the much busier Amalfi. A few young people are enjoying a beach, day as they frolic in the water and socialize on the sandy beach.

We walk through the small village and get a feel for the lifestyle as we notice laundry hanging and a few locals moving about their town.

I’m reminded of a visit to a special exhibit of artist M. C. Escher’s work, when one of his lithographs screamed Amalfi Coast! to me. As I later learned, the print was a view of Atrani from his perspective above the town. This 1931 work, titled “Atrani, Amalfi Coast,” one of several in his Metamorphoses series, is not the only piece in which Santa Maria Maddalena appears. I understand Escher produced a beautiful crayon drawing of Atrani, in which he features a staircase. Another lithograph, titled “Dilapidated Houses in Atrani,” is part of his collection as well. I’m tempted to purchase a copy of “Atrani, Amalfi Coast,” but I have no more wall space in my home, after filling it with framed photographic images I shot during my travels and also some original art I’ve purchased in Italy over the years.

Atrani, Coast of Amalfi by M.C. Escher Photo at National Gallery of Art

For me, one of the appealing features of Atrani is its soft, sand beach, unusual for this coast which is most often identified with gray, pebbled beaches. Pretty blue-and-white umbrellas cover the beach in the summertime, but this is April, so the beaches are uncrowded. The highly recommended beachside restaurant, Le Arcate, with its wide terrace, welcomes guests year-round to savor traditional seafood dishes for lunch or dinner. So we head over there for an al fresco lunch with a view.

By far, this was the best way to experience il dolce far niente.

 

If you’d like to read about more experiences on the beautiful Amalfi Coast, check out my award-winning travel memoir. You’ll feel aas if you’re traveling alongside me.

 

My Amalfi Coast Love Affair

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